I was able to get out and climb two days in a row this week. Which is about two days more than I've been able to get out recently.
Geoff and I started out Tuesday morning with a trip to Guanella Pass where I was able to send Mind Matters and Darkhorse.
Mind Matters has broken twice in the past few years. The first break made it a lot easier, while the most recent break has restored the boulder to its original state. While the line has been traditionally called V12, I think V11 is a more realistic grade. If you were a seriously short person (like really short), I could see how it would be harder, but whatever. It isn't the prettiest line, but it climbs really well (this seems to be a trend in Colorado).
Darkhorse (V10) is a big steep arete, with a very manageable 90sec approach off the road. This problem is the opposite of Mind Matters in that it is a beautiful line, that doesn't climb as good as it looks. Geoff was really close to the send, falling off the last move twice!
After Darkhorse I worked on Double Dutchez, a short and powerful V12 crimp problem courtesy Dave Graham. I did all the moves and almost sent, but my fingers couldn't handle anymore brutalization. This boulder is WAY harder than Mind Matters and feels like spot on V12. This is the main reason I don't think Mind Matters is V12.
EDIT: I went back today (Wed. 6/25) and did Double Dutchez in 2 tries after switching my foot beta. It didn't feel that hard, but nothing does when you send. I still think it is solid for the grade.
|Playing with some fun beta after sending Stinkbug|
We rolled back to Golden, I went to the dentist, and then we headed straight for RMNP. After camping at Moraine Park we unnecessarily bushwhacked our way to the Stinkbug boulder. I flashed Finite Endeavors (V9), did Stinkbug (V10) in a few tries, and then Stinkbug Variation (V9) first try (not a flash because it shares the first 3 moves with Stinkbug). I worked Power of Ten (V12), but couldn't put the brutal first 3 moves together. I am psyched to come back with some cooler weather!
|Geoff on Finite Endeavors|
I can't wait to go bouldering again!