Yay! There is a hard boulder 20min. from my parents house! It feels so good to have something I can work on near home. The climb was put up a few months ago by Tim Rose who called it "Nicodemus" V12. So far his is the only ascent, not that a bunch of strong dudes are lining up for this 5-mover in the suburbs :) It starts on a right facing crimp rail and makes 3-4 hard tension moves on bad crimps in a 50deg overhang, to an all out dyno from a tenous position into a huge jug. So nice. The rock quality is actually pretty good. Only one hold flexes a bit, though I doubt it will ever rip off (if it did break, the problem would still go, just a bit harder). The boulder itself is really short and not very awe-inspiring, but the quality movement is there.
I made good progress on the first session. I did all the moves but the crux. I was close on the crux move, but it is hard to stick to V12 crimps in the summer...in the woods...in Maryland...on a 75+ degree day. Maybe Chelsea is right and I'm just a rock diva :) Seriously though...it's time to bust out the night tactics! 1-3 crisp evening sessions and I think this thing will go down. It is so nice to be able to try HARD again. I love it.
I'll keep you (whoever "you" are) posted on the progress.
