"Carnage" is a really cool line that Daniel Woods put up at Guanella Pass on the Ice Knife boulder. It starts on a sweet side-pull pinch for the right hand and a good flat edge for the left. Tristan and Rowland found a way to start on a slightly lower undercling for the left hand and started with their left foot hight on the flat edge instead. It is a totally legit start and is probably good beta for the shorter folks, but didn't work for my long legs.
Anyway...The first day I tried this I fell going for the dyno bump, which is essentially the last hard move. It's a doozie. Even though you are going for a full-pad-3-finger-incut (what you would call a "jug" on a boulder this hard I suppose) I only stuck the move once, it was on the send, and I yelled really loud (rare for me). The move might not be that bad, but I had a hard time committing to actually grabbing the hold because it is pretty sharp and most of your body weight swings off of it, while you try to stay on a 3-finger 1/5pad edge near your belly button.
I'm happy I got it done when I did and it was cool to get the 2nd ascent of such a nice line. Unfortunately it probably marks the end of my outside climbing in Colorado until I get back from my honeymoon at the end of October. Hopefully everything won't be snowed in!
I didn't get video, but here is a sequence of shots from the first day I worked on it that shows all the moves.
 |
| Move-by-move of Carnage |
No comments:
Post a Comment