I am 3+ weeks into an 8 week strength/power program. I am getting stronger every week. It feels great. Sorta. My fingers feel like they are finally getting back to their pre-pulley tear state. Unfortunately, all the focus on the hangboard and the gym has made me worse at rock climbing. This is familiar territory. Last year Andrew and I did a training program and felt the same effects. We got stronger, but our movement skills and endurance suffered. The good news is, everything returned quickly once we started climbing a lot again. Then we went to Stone Fort and laid the smack down on some boulders. So I am trying to stay motivated and focused through this last half of my training. My performance on the rock is suffering, but i know that if I am patient, stay committed, and listen to my body, the monotony and frustration will be worth it.
I went out today with Terry and Larissa to the Darkwaters cave in Clear Creek Canyon. I really wanted to do Formula 50 (V10 or V11 depending on who you ask), but my beta was wack and I fell on my back a lot. So much so, that I left a crater in the ice, through the crash pad. After getting the wind knocked out of me for an hour I decided to give Formula 50 a break and try Fluid Mechanic (V10). I did Fluid Mechanic in a few tries. Not the coolest boulder, but it felt good to do something. Then I tried the moves on Darkwaters (V12/13). Darkwaters is definitely a cool line and is pretty much my anti-style, horizontal roof thuggery. I am psyched anyway! I'll be spending the next couple weeks on this boulder and I'm ready to lay siege and struggle!
I'm tired. Time to sleep.
No comments:
Post a Comment