Ross and I went out into the wood to try to climb Nicodemus (V12). This was my second session on the boulder and Ross' first. We both got close, but there is one stopper move that we just couldn't get with any consistency. The crimps are very small and skin intensive. After a few tries it is really hard to make yourself bear down enough to make the move.
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| The crux of Nicodemus |
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| Ross, gettin' his "Ggrrr" on. |
I was able to send the right start variation though, so that was nice. From Tim Rose's blog I think the problem is called "Right Hand of the Leper" FA by Fernando. I did the problem in essentially 2 moves. One giant move off 2 decent crimps to a bad-ish right handed crimp, then I put my left foot by my left hand and cranked straight to the jug flake. The left hand moves about 7ft in a fraction of a second, super powerful, and wicked fun. My total guess on a grade would be V9 or V10, but I think the most accurate grade would be Vcrimp-jump. Whatever that means.
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| Move 1 |
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| Move 2 |
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| Done. Jugs to top out. |
After my skin thickens up again I plan on heading out at least one more time before I leave MD to try to get Nicodemus DONE.
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