I moved!
Here:
willanglin.squarespace.com
Its way better.
Wednesday, April 29, 2015
Thursday, January 22, 2015
Hangboarding for Strength
Its been a while. Here are some cool numbers for you though!
I am in the middle of an already successful hangboarding phase and I'd like to share some preliminary results.
Half-pad Edge on Beastmaker 2000
4sec ON/ 8sec OFF x5reps
5 Sets (half crimp 3x, full crimp 1x, open crimp 1x)
3min rest between sets
Perform the workout every 2-4 days depending on how your fingers feel.
________________________________________
Results after 10 sessions over 5 weeks:
Open Crimp: 12.3% increase in amount of weight added (31 lbs)
Half Crimp: 8.6% increase in amount of weight added (21 lbs)
Full Crimp: 12.2% increase in amount of weight added (26 lbs)
I will continue for 3-4 more weeks and post more details when I am finished.
Yay hangboarding!
I am in the middle of an already successful hangboarding phase and I'd like to share some preliminary results.
Half-pad Edge on Beastmaker 2000
4sec ON/ 8sec OFF x5reps
5 Sets (half crimp 3x, full crimp 1x, open crimp 1x)
3min rest between sets
Perform the workout every 2-4 days depending on how your fingers feel.
________________________________________
Results after 10 sessions over 5 weeks:
Open Crimp: 12.3% increase in amount of weight added (31 lbs)
Half Crimp: 8.6% increase in amount of weight added (21 lbs)
Full Crimp: 12.2% increase in amount of weight added (26 lbs)
I will continue for 3-4 more weeks and post more details when I am finished.
Yay hangboarding!
Monday, November 3, 2014
Frustration Station
Prepare for an insignificant rant that may have no real world value to you, but may just be cathartic for me.
You've been warned...
AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!
I want to climb hard boulders faster!
Right now I either do a boulder in a handful of tries or it takes 2-3 days. I'm going to whine about that for a second.
It takes me so long to settle on proper beta and I always second guess myself. So by the time I finally figure out how I want to do a boulder my skin is shredded and seeping fluid like a geyser. It sucks. Then I have to go all the way back to wherever it was at a later date to finish the boulder. It sucks because boulders are far away, gas is expensive, and jobs generally require you to show up with relative frequency. I know I could accomplish more if I either got better at reading beta or figured out how to make my skin last longer.
If anyone knows skin sorcery secrets, let me know. I've tried everything I know of: All the salves in existence, hoof maker, working hands, badger balm, Anti-hydral, and pretty much everything else. Right now the only thing that works is Anti-hydral, but I have to use it 2-3 times a month to keep the puddin' tips at bay.
I'd love to get better at reading beta, but that would require me to climb outside more than once-a-week and that probably isn't going to happen.
I keep getting stronger and I know I could do harder boulders, I just need to find the time.
Whining over.
You've been warned...
AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!
I want to climb hard boulders faster!
Right now I either do a boulder in a handful of tries or it takes 2-3 days. I'm going to whine about that for a second.
It takes me so long to settle on proper beta and I always second guess myself. So by the time I finally figure out how I want to do a boulder my skin is shredded and seeping fluid like a geyser. It sucks. Then I have to go all the way back to wherever it was at a later date to finish the boulder. It sucks because boulders are far away, gas is expensive, and jobs generally require you to show up with relative frequency. I know I could accomplish more if I either got better at reading beta or figured out how to make my skin last longer.
If anyone knows skin sorcery secrets, let me know. I've tried everything I know of: All the salves in existence, hoof maker, working hands, badger balm, Anti-hydral, and pretty much everything else. Right now the only thing that works is Anti-hydral, but I have to use it 2-3 times a month to keep the puddin' tips at bay.
I'd love to get better at reading beta, but that would require me to climb outside more than once-a-week and that probably isn't going to happen.
I keep getting stronger and I know I could do harder boulders, I just need to find the time.
Whining over.
Monday, October 27, 2014
Nothing But Sunshine
The first three times I went to Chaos Canyon I got rained out. On one of those days I was able to work the moves on Nothing But Sunshine before a light drizzle turned into a full on thunderstorm and we had to run out.
Yesterday was different. No rain at all, crisp temps, a little cloudy, and a brisk wind. PERFECT! After warming up on a few boulders we headed back to NBS. I was able to get it done in less than an hour and still have time to do a few more classics and check out some other harder lines.
I don't think I'll be able to make it up to the park for another few weeks, so hopefully the snow holds off!
Here is a sweet video we made: https://vimeo.com/110148792
 |
| A grainy screen-shot for your viewing pleasure |
Yesterday was different. No rain at all, crisp temps, a little cloudy, and a brisk wind. PERFECT! After warming up on a few boulders we headed back to NBS. I was able to get it done in less than an hour and still have time to do a few more classics and check out some other harder lines.
I don't think I'll be able to make it up to the park for another few weeks, so hopefully the snow holds off!
Here is a sweet video we made: https://vimeo.com/110148792
Tuesday, October 21, 2014
Bouldermoon Update
I'm married!
It's great.
Chelsea and I took our honeymoon to Chattanooga, TN to do some bouldering for a few days as well as eat a lot of good southern food.
Chelsea stomped some boulders that had given her trouble 2 years ago, but a pre-wedding bout of sickness took her out of fighting shape for most of the trip.
I was able to do: The Law (V11), Bosley Traverse (V9-), and Shotgun (V6) on one day and then the next day did: Power of Amida (V10) 3rd try, Cleopatra-Cinderella Trav. (V9) 2nd try, I Think I Can (V9), Interplanetary Escape (V9), Cleopatra (V8) 2nd try, Fatigue Syndrome (V8) flash, Aneardon Low (V8), Cinderella (V7) flash, and The Hulk (V6) 2nd try.
We met some awesome people and had a great time.
If you are looking for a place to stay in Chattanooga, definitely check out The Crashpad. The greatest hostel ever!
And now we are headed back to Colorado!
It's great.
Chelsea and I took our honeymoon to Chattanooga, TN to do some bouldering for a few days as well as eat a lot of good southern food.
Chelsea stomped some boulders that had given her trouble 2 years ago, but a pre-wedding bout of sickness took her out of fighting shape for most of the trip.
 |
| Chelsea working on Rail Rider |
I was able to do: The Law (V11), Bosley Traverse (V9-), and Shotgun (V6) on one day and then the next day did: Power of Amida (V10) 3rd try, Cleopatra-Cinderella Trav. (V9) 2nd try, I Think I Can (V9), Interplanetary Escape (V9), Cleopatra (V8) 2nd try, Fatigue Syndrome (V8) flash, Aneardon Low (V8), Cinderella (V7) flash, and The Hulk (V6) 2nd try.
 |
| The Law |
We met some awesome people and had a great time.
If you are looking for a place to stay in Chattanooga, definitely check out The Crashpad. The greatest hostel ever!
And now we are headed back to Colorado!
Monday, September 15, 2014
Carnage
I climbed up a hard (for me) boulder!
"Carnage" is a really cool line that Daniel Woods put up at Guanella Pass on the Ice Knife boulder. It starts on a sweet side-pull pinch for the right hand and a good flat edge for the left. Tristan and Rowland found a way to start on a slightly lower undercling for the left hand and started with their left foot hight on the flat edge instead. It is a totally legit start and is probably good beta for the shorter folks, but didn't work for my long legs.
Anyway...The first day I tried this I fell going for the dyno bump, which is essentially the last hard move. It's a doozie. Even though you are going for a full-pad-3-finger-incut (what you would call a "jug" on a boulder this hard I suppose) I only stuck the move once, it was on the send, and I yelled really loud (rare for me). The move might not be that bad, but I had a hard time committing to actually grabbing the hold because it is pretty sharp and most of your body weight swings off of it, while you try to stay on a 3-finger 1/5pad edge near your belly button.
I'm happy I got it done when I did and it was cool to get the 2nd ascent of such a nice line. Unfortunately it probably marks the end of my outside climbing in Colorado until I get back from my honeymoon at the end of October. Hopefully everything won't be snowed in!
I didn't get video, but here is a sequence of shots from the first day I worked on it that shows all the moves.
"Carnage" is a really cool line that Daniel Woods put up at Guanella Pass on the Ice Knife boulder. It starts on a sweet side-pull pinch for the right hand and a good flat edge for the left. Tristan and Rowland found a way to start on a slightly lower undercling for the left hand and started with their left foot hight on the flat edge instead. It is a totally legit start and is probably good beta for the shorter folks, but didn't work for my long legs.
Anyway...The first day I tried this I fell going for the dyno bump, which is essentially the last hard move. It's a doozie. Even though you are going for a full-pad-3-finger-incut (what you would call a "jug" on a boulder this hard I suppose) I only stuck the move once, it was on the send, and I yelled really loud (rare for me). The move might not be that bad, but I had a hard time committing to actually grabbing the hold because it is pretty sharp and most of your body weight swings off of it, while you try to stay on a 3-finger 1/5pad edge near your belly button.
I'm happy I got it done when I did and it was cool to get the 2nd ascent of such a nice line. Unfortunately it probably marks the end of my outside climbing in Colorado until I get back from my honeymoon at the end of October. Hopefully everything won't be snowed in!
I didn't get video, but here is a sequence of shots from the first day I worked on it that shows all the moves.
 |
| Move-by-move of Carnage |
Thursday, August 28, 2014
Love Mattress
2 Realizations:
-My climbing ability/psych fluctuates in 4 month cycles.
-I climb better when I'm having fun with my friends and I don't care if I send or not.
We rolled up to Guanella Pass yesterday despite the terrible weather forecast...and had perfect weather the whole time! Plus we had the whole area to ourselves. It was a great day. Geoff sent his first V10-in-a-day with Crimping Matters, Tyler FLASHED Dark Horse (V10), Paul had his first alpine bouldering day after driving in from PA, and I sent Bessie (V10), Crimping Matters (V10), Earth Matters (V10), Life Matters (V7/8), Love Matters (V6/7), Beyond Matters (V8), and a new line that we are calling Love Mattress (V11/12).
Hooray!
Love Mattress starts on Love Matters, but instead of making the move to the left hand side pull to finish straight up the arete, it climbs into the start crimps of Earth Matters and finishes that. The moves on Love Matters aren't hard so they don't really affect the grade, but the transition into the crimps and gaining the position to make the first move on Earth Matters is probably V9+ by itself. Then you have to actually do the 3 move V10 that is Earth Matters. I think V11/12 is a fair grade since I think it is harder than all the other V10s at Guanella and similar in difficulty to Mind Matters which is considered V11/12.
The bad news is that the boulder was severely dug out by Brian, which I consider to be an ethical no-no. I almost didn't go to the boulder because of this, but I got sucked in by the quality of the rock. I understand the need to groom certain landings to make for a more enjoyable experience, but I also think there is a line that should not be crossed. In this case the ground is soft and has already begun eroding beyond the initial excavation/landscaping. Is the boulder going to fall over? No. After a couple of decades could it slide into the trail? Probably. In the grand scheme of things I guess it isn't a big deal and I did enjoy climbing on the boulder. All I know is it makes me feel bad when I see stuff like that and I hope people will make better decisions and think about the long term impact of what they do and how their actions could influence the actions of others. Rant over.
EDIT 9/8/14:
I received a great response this morning from Brian K. Though we still disagree a bit, I have a lot of respect for his willingness to discuss the situation in a really constructive way. It should be noted that he did not act unilaterally in this situation and had the support of much of the Guanella bouldering community.
Whether a person agrees or disagrees with the decision to move this much dirt, what's done is done, and we all may as well enjoy it without too much grumbling. It is just a boulder after all!
-My climbing ability/psych fluctuates in 4 month cycles.
-I climb better when I'm having fun with my friends and I don't care if I send or not.
 |
| Tyler on Bessie |
 |
| Geoff sending Crimping Matters |
Hooray!
Love Mattress starts on Love Matters, but instead of making the move to the left hand side pull to finish straight up the arete, it climbs into the start crimps of Earth Matters and finishes that. The moves on Love Matters aren't hard so they don't really affect the grade, but the transition into the crimps and gaining the position to make the first move on Earth Matters is probably V9+ by itself. Then you have to actually do the 3 move V10 that is Earth Matters. I think V11/12 is a fair grade since I think it is harder than all the other V10s at Guanella and similar in difficulty to Mind Matters which is considered V11/12.
 |
| Finishing the second crux on the FA of Love Mattress |
The bad news is that the boulder was severely dug out by Brian, which I consider to be an ethical no-no. I almost didn't go to the boulder because of this, but I got sucked in by the quality of the rock. I understand the need to groom certain landings to make for a more enjoyable experience, but I also think there is a line that should not be crossed. In this case the ground is soft and has already begun eroding beyond the initial excavation/landscaping. Is the boulder going to fall over? No. After a couple of decades could it slide into the trail? Probably. In the grand scheme of things I guess it isn't a big deal and I did enjoy climbing on the boulder. All I know is it makes me feel bad when I see stuff like that and I hope people will make better decisions and think about the long term impact of what they do and how their actions could influence the actions of others. Rant over.
EDIT 9/8/14:
I received a great response this morning from Brian K. Though we still disagree a bit, I have a lot of respect for his willingness to discuss the situation in a really constructive way. It should be noted that he did not act unilaterally in this situation and had the support of much of the Guanella bouldering community.
Whether a person agrees or disagrees with the decision to move this much dirt, what's done is done, and we all may as well enjoy it without too much grumbling. It is just a boulder after all!
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