Monday, February 25, 2013

DAVE



THE VIDEO

Watch this. It is a great video of Dave MacLeod talking about pushing your limits. Plus there is awesome footage of him climbing New Baseline (V14) and Mystic Stylez (V15).





Check out his blog and buy his book "9 out of 10 Climbers", it's amazing. At some point I'll type up a review of the book to better convince you, but for now you'll just have to believe me.

http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Mini Phase Wrap-up




After a 4 week mini-phase of strength/power training with Andrew, The two of us have noticed some huge differences. Good things and bad things. First of all...so strong! On our first evening back to regular "fun" climbing, both Andrew and I noticed big increases in overall grip strength and upper body power. On the downside, we also noticed a significant DECREASE in overall climbing technique. For myself I really noticed a lack of full body awareness in relation to my core. Especially on moves with a more "3 dimensional" quality. Which makes sense considering I have been training almost exclusively on a single plane system board. Fortunately, as the evening session went on, we both felt our movement skills returning. I am sure that will continue as we break away from the system board for a while.

I am most excited by the fact that I could even start training again. It has been almost a year now since I injured my finger(s) and it feels good to be able to try hard again. I'm still not 100% which is why the training phase was only 4 weeks (as opposed to 6-8weeks). Hopefully as my fingers continue to improve I will be able to train my fingers more specifically.

At some point I will post the workouts Andrew and I did. Stay tuned.

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Be Like Kirby...


...because Kirby is like everybody.



Kirby. He (or she?) is a pretty weird character. Worthless on his own, Kirby must eat someone to gain their powers to do battle. Cartoon cannibalism. Nice. This isn't a new concept though. There were (and still are) cannibalistic societies out there that believed consuming the heart or other bodyparts of your enemy would help you steal their power and become stronger. Remember that one scene in Red Dawn where they make that one kid drink the deer blood? Same thing.

One paragraph in and we're still on the topic of cannibalism. Maybe I've had too much coffee?

Here is what I'm getting at:

As climbers we can learn something from everyone. We can climb with others who are better than us, observed their movements and habits, and take what works for us in order to enhance our own performance. We can steal their powers. Like Kirby. Minus the cannibalism.

Maybe it isn't like this for everyone, but I feel like some of my biggest improvements in climbing have come from the close observation and interaction with people who I think are really great climbers. I'd like to highlight two of these climbers and how I have learned from them. Hopefully these examples will make my point clearer, and help you forget the first part of this post where I talked about eating people...

CHRIS LINDNER
Damn. This guy is good. Chris is by far the best climber I have ever seen. No question. The way this guy moves on rock is unparalleled. He has literally been climbing since infancy. Leading 5.10 trad at age 4, 5.13 sport at age 9, 5.14c at age 16.

I had the pleasure of climbing with chris for the few months he lived in Gunnison. During that time I learned some very crucial things about Commitment, Pacing, Muscle Memory, and Vision.

What stood out to me immediately the first time I saw Chris climb was the commitment with which he moved. Everytime he went for a handhold or placed his foot, it was like he knew with 100% certainty that the move he was doing was the right move, and that he was absolutely going to stick it. Imagine being able to move with the confidence and commitment of your 20th try on a route...on your flash burn. Yeah. It's like that. And he does it fast. The execution is impeccable, the epitome of efficiency. Every deadpoint is right on. Every hold is engaged in the perfect spot. Hips never sag. Feet never slip unexpectedly. The perfect balance of static and dynamic.

Ever since climbing with Chris I have been inspired to try to mimic this style.

Perhaps the most important thing I gleaned from Chris, was Vision. This guy can see a boulder problem anywhere! One day I took him out to some boulders I had been working on outside of town. After quickly flashing all my projects he cleaned off some AMAZING lines I had completely passed by because I thought they were impossible. Ever since then I have tried to never pass a boulder off as impossible. Some of my favorite first ascents have resulted from hiking to the same "impossible" boulder over and over again until it finally goes.

Aside from being an amazing climber, Chris is SUPER humble, generous, and friendly. A great guy who continues to inspire.


ROSS TYREE
Have you ever looked at a tiny rubber polished foothold and thought, "Wow, that looks like a great crimp!"? No? Well Ross has. And he'll also take that foothold/crimp, lock it off to his waist, hand-foot match it, and make another huge move.

I count myself lucky to be able to watch Ross climb on a regular basis. He is a machine. Whenever we set a new bouldering section at the gym I always try to set Ross a new project, because he keeps sending everything. We even have a box of holds in the back labeled "Ross Holds", baisically footholds that Ross cranks off of. There are a few things that Ross does that really stand out.

First of all (if you haven't gathered already), this guy can hold on to anything, if it is bolted on the wall it's fair game. He takes this mindset to the rock too, with amazing results.

Ross has a way of making everything work for him. He can create tension off of anything. Little patches of friction on the wall, microscopic bump holds, crazy toe scums...pure sorcery.

Ross desn't get bogged down by the way things "should be done". He finds the path of least resistance and goes with it.

Another thing. Ross goes home. He doesn't get stuck on a problem and obsess over it all evening until he is dog tired and worn out. He knows when to take a break and come back later. And he always comes back. And he always sends. Whenever he comes in to the gym to train, he is fresh and ready to go. We could all benefit from this kind of simultaneous stubbornness and self control.

And again, a SUPER humble guy and tons of fun to climb with. If you are ever at the gym and see this guy. Take a break and watch for a bit (be as creepy as possible). It is always impressive.




We are surrounded by people who can teach us things. All we have to do is pay attention and be open to different ideas.



Go Kirby some people!

(metaphorically...don't actually eat them)

Sunday, February 3, 2013

The Rock Always Wins

This rock definitely wins.

I just ran accross this picture of a sizeable boulder I stumpled upon while exploring around Gunnison. It got me thinking about something I frequently forget about and subsequently re-remember over and over again...

The rock always wins. Whether you send it or not. You will die. It will still be there. Score one for the rock. Also. No matter how strong you get, there will always be a rock that you can't climb no matter how hard you try. Another point for the rock. You can smash up all the rock, then an asteroid (a big space rock) will come down and smash you. More points for the rock. Then there will be crazy volcanos and climate events that will exterminate all life on the planet, leaving nothing...but rock. The rock always wins.

Which begs the question: What idiot made the rules for rock-paper-scissors?